3.0 



2.5 - 



2.0- 



>■ 1.5 



1.0 



0.75 

 0.5 



Fall Velocity = 0.62 ft/s 



\ 



Fall Velocity = 0.21 ff/s 



\ 



\ 



\_ 



0.7 1.0 2.0 4.0 



Wave Steepness Ho/LodO'^) 



6.0 



9.0 



Figure 4. Relationship between vertical crest to bar or step distance 

 and wave steepness (Nicholson, 1968). 



19 



