40 

 30 



20 

 5 



h — Xo — - 



r'D = 1.44 

 X'D = 0.96 

 7'D = 0.80 

 X'D = 0.24 



Wave 

 Flume 



X 



Submerged 



Groin 



/^ 



Density 



Size 



Materiol 



r' 



D mm 



♦ Sand 



1.6 



0.9 



I Sand 



1.6 



0.5 



D Sand 



1.6 



0.5 



b. Sand 



1.6 



0.6 



• Anthracite 



0.72 



2 



o Coal 



0.39 



0.6 



A Ground 







Apricot 



0.30 



2.7 



Stiells 







15 20 



30 40 50 



00 

 Xo(cm) 



150 200 300 400 500 



1000 



Figure 3. Beach crest to bar distance (Sitarz, 1963) 



