SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 
proportionality constant (8 = aa) 
height of bluff (in case of erosion) or berm (in case of accretion) 
phase velocity at breaking 
deepwater phase velocity 
water depth at ye 
water depth 
breaking depth 
variation of sand volume due to horizontal displacement during time, dt 
variation of sand volume due to beach slope variation during time, dt 
group velocity at breaking 
deepwater wave group velocity 
gravity acceleration 
breaking wave height 
deepwater wave height 
diffraction coefficient 
refraction coefficient from deep water to the line of breaking inception 
percentage of silt 
time-constant parameter 
wavelength at breaking 
deepwater wavelength 
length of groin perpendicular to shore 
loss of sand by rip currents 
beach slope at shoreline 
horizontal axis parallel to the average initial beach profile 
horizontal axis perpendicular to x, oriented positively seaward 
vertical axis, positive upward 
longshore energy flux 
dimensionless littoral drift discharge 
littoral drift discharge in cubic yards per year 
loss of bluff volume (in case of erosion) due to silt 
loss of bluff volume (in case of erosion) due to silt 
