SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



d* water depth where Hg ^^^ occurs 



g acceleration due to gravity 



H^, maximum breaker height for monochromatic waves 



Hj average height o£ highest 1 percent of all waves for a given time 

 period 



Hi max peak value of H^ 



H^ deepwater significant wave height 



Hg significant wave height defined as the average of the highest 

 one-third waves 



Hg max peak value of Hg 



Tp wave period defined as the period of peak energy density for 

 irregular waves 



m slope of the bottom 



