SWL 

 Intercept 



Figure 1. Predicted nearshore wave heights using Goda's model. 



average of the highest 1 percent of the waves and is the wave height with an 

 exceedance probability of approximately 1/260. Goda's model predicts that the 

 peak value of H;^ occurs just seaward of d* (Fig. 1). 



Figure 2 gives the design curves for Hg ^^^ and Hi max a-s a function of 

 deepwater wave steepness and beach slope. These curves show that the peak wave 

 heights decrease as the wave steepness increases and the beach slope becomes 

 flatter. The dimensionless water depth where the peak significant wave height 

 occurs becomes smaller as the beach slope or wave steepness increases, except 

 for the steepest waves (Fig. 3). 



III. EXAMPLE PROBLEM 



GIVEN: Wave conditions of H^ = 6.56 feet (2.0 meters) and T„ = 10 seconds 



with a beach slope, m, = 1/100. 



P 



FIND : The peak significant and maximum wave heights in the surf zone and 

 their locations. 



SOLUTION : For this example: 



Hc,/gT| = 2.0/(9.8 * 102) = 0.002. 



From Figure 2, 



Ho mn 



H^ 



1.18 or Hg rnax =7.7 feet (2.3 meters). 



and 



= 1.81 or Hi rnax = 11-8 feet (3.62 meters). 



