From Figure 3, 



7j^ = 2.36 or d* = 15.5 feet (4.72 meters) 



tin 



which occurs 1,550 feet (472 meters) offshore of the beach Stillwater level 

 (SWL) intercept for a 1/100 slope beach. 



Note that monochromatic theory predicts a breaker height, E-^, (Fig. 7-3 

 in U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 1977)^ 

 that occurs between the peak significant and maximum one percent heights 

 (see Table) . 



Table. Predicted peak wave heights using 



irregular and monochromatic theories 

 (T = 10 seconds; m = 1/20) . 



Ho 

 (ft) (m) 



Hs 

 (ft) 



max 

 (m) 



H& 

 (ft) (m) 



Hi 

 (ft) 



max 

 (m) 



3.28 (1.0) 



5.25 



(1.6) 



5.9 (1.8) 



7.54 



(2.3) 



6.56 (2.0) 



8.53 



(2.6) 



10.2 (3.1) 



12.5 



(3.8) 



13.1 (4.0) 



13.8 



(4.2) 



1.6.7 (5.1) 



21.3 



(6.5) 



19.7 (6.01 



19.0 



(5.8) 



23.0 (7.01 



30.2 



r9.21 



IV. SUMMARY 



The model of Goda (1975) -^ for predicting heights of irregular waves in the 

 surf zone is used to determine the peak significant and maximum wave heights 

 and location where peak wave heights will occur. 



^U.S. ARMY, op. cit., p. 7. 

 ■^GODA, Y., op. cit. , p. 7. 



11 



