10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 



Figure 18. Prediction of wave breaking angles using 

 linear theory. 



The remaining breaking wave characteristics are easily determined 

 as shown in the following example: 



Given: -j-^ = 0.02 S = 0.03 and a =40° 

 L o 



o 



Find: 



%' IT ^"'^ H" 



(a) Cnoidal -linear 

 From Figure 15 is found 



CL = 15°. 9 

 Using Snell 's law 



^b ^i"% 



= 0.426 



L sina 

 o o 



The wave height can be found from the breaking criterion 



H, ,,7 H -1/4 3/4 



b _ _, 1/7 o , 



H-= °-^^ ^°" % ^7T47T^ 



O Lb 



O 



K 



= l.llJ 



Finally, the depth of breaking is computed from the dispersion 

 relationship, which is solved for 



\^ 



In 



o 



o 



0.455 



35 



