cnoidal third-order Stokes 



cnoidal-linear 



linear 



a 



to ~ 



H 







~ = 0.053 

 



. 





^y^ 



o - 



3 





^ ^ - 



o _ 









r 1 I 1 1 



1 



10 20 



30 40 



Go 



50 



60 



30 40 50 60 



Go 



Figure 12. Comparison of experimental and theoretical wave breaking 

 angles (bottom slope, S = 0.10). 



