02 03 01 05 06 08 



01 05 06 07 08 10 



lu,- 



. I 



.02 03 01 06 08 10 II 



06 08 10 



20 30 



06 Oe 10 



20 JO 



Figure 7. Comparison of experimental shoaling coefficients with Stokes 

 third order (x^^ is the breaking location) (from Flick, 1978], 



19 



