BREAKING INCEPTION 



Figure 3. Shoaling coefficient obtained in equating the 

 energy flux between a third-order Stokian wave 

 in deep water and cnoidal (hyperbolic) wave in 

 shallow water (Iwagaki, 1968). 



H/H„ 



Vx 











Ho'U- 



001 \ \,0 002 







X 



\vC^ 



^ H/h . 0.8 

 ,0.005 







■\^\M\\,oo. 







^^^^«s^X\ \^' 







^^^i^OvXOv 02 







j ^^'^^^<>°°^ 





• h/L, 



Figure 4. Comparison between shoaling coefficients 



according to linear and cnoidal wave theories 

 (Svendsen and Brink-Kjaer, 1972). 



14 



