SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



A elliptic function 



B elliptic function 



C wave phase speed 



E complete elliptic integral of the second kind 



H wave height 



H' unrefracted deepwater wave height 



K complete elliptic integral of the first kind 



Kp refraction coefficient 



Kg shoaling coefficient 



L wavelength 



Lg cnoidal wavelength parameter 



L-^ linear wavelength 



Q littoral transport rate 



S beach slope 



T wave period 



U Ursell parameter = HL^/d^ 



V(u,v) particle velocity 



d Stillwater depth 



ffl cnoidal shoaling function 



g gravity 



k wave number 



p pressure 



t time 



x-y cartesian ordinates 



a angle of wave incidence 



n free-surface elevation 



p density 

 (()(x,z,t) velocity potential 



b,o subscripts which refer to breaking or deepwater values, respectively 



