CONTENTS 



FIGURES--Continued 



Page 

 9 The linear theory underestimates the breaking wave height 21 



10 Wavelength as a function of depth predicted by different wave 



theories 23 



11 Transformation of wavelengths 23 



12 Comparison of experimental and theoretical wave breaking angles .... 31 



13 Wave breaking angle as a function of deepwater wave angle and 



deepwater steepness on a bottom slope, S = 0.01 32 



14 Wave breaking angle as a function of deepwater wave angle and 



deepwater steepness on a bottom slope, S = 0.02 33 



15 Wave breaking angle as a function of deepwater wave angle and 



deepwater steepness on a bottom slope, S = 0.03 33 



16 Wave breaking angle as a function of deepwater wave angle and 



deepwater steepness on a bottom slope, S = 0.05 34 



17 Wave breaking angle as a function of deepwater wave angle and 



deepwater steepness on a bottom slope, S = 0.10 34 



18 Prediction of wave breaking angles using linear theory . . 35 



