FIND : 



(a) The unrefracted wave height in the 500-meter depth, 



(b) the water particle velocity lu^^l in each water depth, and 



(c) the horizontal water particle motion |5 mcKC | in each water depth. 



SOLUTION : 



(a) H 1 = 0.4 meter, d 1 = 1,000 meters, d £ = 500 meters 

 From equation (49) , 



H 2 /V 1 



H 2 \d. 



H 500 _ /l 

 0.4 \ 



)l/4 

 = 1.189 



H 500 = O^C 1 - 189 ) = °- 48 meter (1.56 feet) 



(b) From equation (50) , 



a gi/2 



max d 1/2 



Assuming a = H 2 /2 = 0.2 meter, at d x = 1,000 meters, 



u I = °- 2 ( 9 - 807 ) =0.02 meter (0.065 foot) per second 



ma *|l,000 (1,000) 1/2 



From equation (54) where d 2 = 500 meters, 



.3/4 



l max), 

 I rnaxU 



1500 _ / 1,000 V3 



u \ 500 



I 'Hi, 000 



, i,ooo\ 3/1+ 



= 0.02 I 1 = 0.034 meter (0.11 foot) per second 



lu I = 0.02 — 



I ^SOO \ 500 / 



43 



