SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS—Continued 



v horizontal velocity in direction transverse to wave motion 



• velocity in the <j>-direction (spherical coordinates) 



w velocity in the vertical direction 



w* a convective term 



x horizontal coordinate in direction of wave motion 



Xp 



distance between the shoreline and the point where a wave ray 

 turns parallel to bottom contours 



y horizontal coordinate in direction transverse to x-direction 



Z maximum scarp height 



Z depth of wave generation 



Z, a parameter used in wave reflection and transmission 



z vertical coordinate 



a dimensional constant 



•correction term for harbor entrance channel length 



a, angle in wave refraction between the incident wave ray and an 



orthogonal to the contour of the sea bottom 



g angle of the beach slope 



•wave ray separation distance 



• angle of nearshore slope given in radians 



• dimensional constant 



Y specific weight of water 



• an edge wave parameter 



Y dimensionless amplitude 

 A an incremental distance 

 6 a small value 



& r dimensional constant 



e an arbitrary increment 



• H/d 



C(x,t) vertical movement of sea bottom 



n water surface elevation above still water at an arbitrary point 



15 



