CONTENTS 



Page 

 CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) 9 



SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 10 



I INTRODUCTION 17 



1. Nature and Origin of Tsunamis 17 



2. Probability of Occurrence 21 



II THE GENERATION OF TSUNAMIS 27 



1. Submarine Earthquakes 28 



2. Volcanic Activity 30 



3. Landslides and Submarine Slumps 30 



4. Explosions 31 



III MECHANICS OF GENERATION 32 



1. Area and Height of Uplifting 32 



2. Initial Wave Formation 34 



IV TSUNAMI PROPAGATION 38 



1. Small -Amplitude Waves 38 



2. Long-Wave Equations . . 44 



3. Distantly Generated Tsunamis 47 



4. Nearshore Propagation 51 



5. Computer Models 55 



6. Nearshore Computer Models 60 



V TSUNAMIS APPROACHING THE SHORELINE , 67 



1. Abrupt Depth Transitions 67 



2. Linear Depth Transitions 73 



3. Nonlinear Depth Transitions 76 



4. Experimental Measurements 79 



5. Solitons and Shoaling- Induced Dispersion 80 



VI TSUNAMI -SHORELINE INTERACTION .... 88 



1. Wave Reflection 88 



2. Shelf Resonance 91 



3. Reflection from Seaward Edge of Shelf 98 



4. Edge Waves 101 



5. Refracted Waves and Caustics 108 



6. Mach-Stem Formation 130 



7. Bay and Harbor Resonance 131 



VII TSUNAMI RUNUP AND INTERACTION WITH STRUCTURES 146 



1. Tsunami Runup on a Shoreline 147 



2. Interaction with Shore-Protection Structures 158 



3. Other Shoreline Structures 167 



4. Tsunami Surge on the Shoreline 169 



