the values of U obtained by Hidaka (1935b) are given in Table 1. 

 The values obtained by Wilson (1972) are given in Table 2. The wave 

 profiles are plotted in Figure 32. 



Table 2. Values of horizontal water particle displacement, 

 N, and wave amplitude, U. 



T 



= 1,395 s 



cj 2 = 0.0045 



d S = 



30 m S = 



0.001 



x/a 



N 



U 



x/a 



N 



U 



0.0 







1.0000 



1.4 



69.50 



-0.5928 



0.1 



-38.79 



0.9501 



1.5 



80.41 



-0.4001 



0.2 



-70.95 



0.8090 



1.6 



85.71 



-0.1865 



0.3 



-94.23 



0.5967 



1.7 



85.49 



0.0336 



0.4 



-107.48 



0.3374 



1.8 



80.14 



0.2465 



0.5 



-110.56 



0.0571 



1.9 



70.33 



0.4399 



0.6 



-104.20 



-0.2190 



2.0 



56.92 



0.6035 



0.7 



-89.82 



-0.4684 



2.1 



40.90 



0.7292 



0.8 



-67.27 



-0.6729 



2.2 



23.31 



0.8117 



0.9 



-44.66 



-0.8194 



2.3 



5.20 



0.8484 



1.0 



-18.17 



-0.9002 



2.4 



-12.43 



0.8391 



1.1 



8.15 



-0.9131 



2.5 



-28.71 



0.7862 



1.2 



32.47 



-0.8609 



2.6 



-42.90 



0.6941 



1.3 



53.29 



-0.7507 









For the given conditions, Figure 32 shows that Wilson's method 

 produces almost the same results as those obtained by Hidaka; however, 

 Wilson's results would predict slightly less amplification over the 

 same distance. 



************************************ 



In comparing the work of Hidaka (1935a, 1935b) with that of Wilson 

 (1972), the numerical method proposed by Wilson for determining the wave 

 profile is much more readily used for a particular shelf slope. Table 1 

 (Hidaka, 1935b) has the advantage of being a general solution. The value 

 of shelf slope, S2 = 0.001, used in example problem 14 is typical of 

 slopes found on many continental shelves. Figure 32 shows that the two 

 methods produce comparable results. Wilson's method has the added feature 

 of considering wave refraction. 



3. Reflection from Seaward Edge of Shelf . 



Section V discussed the reflection of waves from an abrupt transition 

 in water depth. It was shown that when a wave propagates seaward from 



98 



