FOREWORD 



A better understanding of the basic mechanisms of sediment 

 transport by wave action is being sought by the Coastal Engineering 

 Research Center (formerly the Beach Erosion Board) through several 

 different approaches . One of these which has been pursued under 

 contract with the University of California at Berkeley, is reported 

 on herein. This report discusses the mechanisms of sediment trans- 

 port in a layer immediately adjacent to the ocean floor for long 

 waves of small amplitude and relatively deep water. Proceeding on 

 the premise that a bed-load function exists for the assumed type 

 of flow, a bed-load transport equation was developed. Effects of 

 both the unsteady mean flow velocity and the turbulent fluctuations 

 are taken into account. From this equation the rate per unit width 

 at which sediment in the bed layer is shifted by the oscillatory 

 flow is calculated. 



This report was prepared at the Hydraulic Engineering Labora- 

 tory of the University of California at Berkeley in pursuance of 

 contracts DA-49-055-eng-17 and DA-49-055-CE-63-4 with the Beach 

 Erosion Board (now the Coastal Engineering Research Center). These 

 contracts provided in part for the study of sand movement by wave 

 action. The author of the report, George Kalkanis , was at that 

 time a graduate student and research assistant at the University. 



This report is published under authority of Public Law 166, 

 79th Congress, approved July 31, 1945, as modified by Public Law 

 88-172, approved November 7, 1963. 



