N = number of experiments performed 



p = pressure 



n = pressure of water surface 



Q = discharge per unit length 



AQ. = discharge associated with slice j 



R = reflection coefficient 



R = critical Reynolds number 

 c 



R, = particle Reynolds number 



R, = particle Reynolds number of model 



dm ^ 



R = measured reflection coefficient 

 m 



R = predicted reflection coefficient 



P 



R = predicted reflection coefficient (simplified formula) 



ps ^ 



R = ratio of runup to incident wave height 



R = reflection coefficient determined in Section II 



R = reflection coefficient determined in Section III 



S = parameter defined by equation (5) 



Sj^ = parameter defined by equation (28) 



t = time 



T = transmission coefficient 



T = wave period 



T = transmission coefficient calculated in Section II 



u = complex horizontal velocity component 



U = horizontal velocity component 



U, = horizontal velocity component at the bottom 



U. = horizontal discharge velocity component through a slice 



