(2) Wind Direction (Block 28). Wind direction is observed by noting 

 the direction on the eight-point compass, i.e., NE. , N. , NW. , N. , etc., from 

 which the maximum speed the wind is blowing. Initially upon establishing a 

 LEO station, a compass should be used to determine the orientation of the 

 shoreline. When the orientation of the shoreline is known, wind direction is 

 determined by reference to the shoreline. Note, however, that the compass 

 direction is recorded on the LEO form, not the orientation with respect to the 

 shoreline as is the case for the wave direction. 



h. Foreshore Slope (Blocks 29 and 30). The steepness of the foreshore 

 slope is a measure of the energy of the breaking waves. This parameter is 

 measured using the Abney topographic hand level. The foreshore slope, located 

 in the nearshore area, is the part of beach wetted by the wave uprush. The 

 level is used in combination with a straightedge such as the length of a 2-by- 

 4 flat board or some suitable substitute. The board is placed on the fore- 

 shore, or upper wetted part of the swash zone, pointing seaward. The board 

 smooths minor irregularities across the slope and also keeps the hand level 

 out of the water and sand. Figure 14 shows the Abney level being used with a 

 clipboard to determine beach slope. The level is placed on the straightedge 

 and leveled by turning the knob on the calibrated scale on one side of the 

 instrument until the bubble in the level is centered. The angle is recorded 

 on the LEO form to the nearest degree. Note that there are no plus or minus 

 readings. 



Figure 14. Measurement of foreshore slope using Abney hand level. 



i. Width of the Surf Zone (Blocks 31 to 34). The observer is required to 

 visually estimate the distance from the shoreline to the seawardmost line of 

 breakers. For this measurement, the shoreline is taken to be at the upper 

 limit of the wetted part of the beach, as shown in Figure 15. It is important 

 that offshore whitecaps are not confused with breaker activity. The width is 

 recorded on the form in feet. 



j. Longshore Current. The longshore current flows parallel to the shore- 

 line, primarily within the surf zone, generated by waves breaking at an angle 

 to the shoreline. The LEO observer is supplied with fluorescein dye to esti- 

 mate the speed and direction of the current. Small dye packets are made by 

 wrapping a teaspoon of dye in several layers of paper tissue and wrapping the 

 packet with a rubber band or tape. 



