CONTENTS 



CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) 6 



SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 7 



I INTRODUCTION 11 



II THE FIRST MODEL (PELNARD-CONSIDERE) 13 



1. Refinement and Extensions of the Pelnard-Considere Model . . 22 



2. Example of Shoreline Evolution 30 



III THE TWO-LINE THEORY OF BAKKER 31 



IV THE EFFECT OF WAVE DIFFRACTION 39 



V SPIRAL BEACHES 42 



VI PROTOTYPE APPLICATIONS 44 



VII CONCLUSIONS 49 



LITERATURE CITED 54 



TABLES 



1 u versus (u) 17 



2 Summary of mathematical models for shoreline evolution 50 



FIGURES 



1 Beach depth definition 14 



2 Successive beach profiles updrift of a long groin 



before bypassing 14 



3 Successive beach profiles updrift of a groin after 



after bypassing 19 



4 Matching transition between solutions I and 2 . 19 



5 Sand bypassing long groin as a function of time 21 



6 Comparison between experimental and theoretical shore- 



line evolution 23 



7 Comparison between experimental and theoretical sand 



bypassing discharge 23 



