SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



'^ Fourier coefficient for signal 1, pressure signal, and water surface 

 t, K T, elevation signal 



C wave celerity at breaking depth 



Cf friction coefficient 



Cio cospectra of signals 1 and 2 



D sediment size 



d water depth 



d|j water depth at breaking 



E energy density of waves (below spacial aliasing frequency) 



E'poT total energy density 



F modulus of wave amplitude spectrum 



F^ onshore energy flux at gage location 



Fv, onshore energy flux at breaking 



G ratio of total energy to energy below spacial aliasing frequency 



g acceleration of gravity 



H^, breaking wave height 



H^jjjg root-mean-square wave height 



H root-mean-square wave height at breaking 

 rms|^ 



Hg significant wave height 



I immersed weight sediment transport rate 



i index number 



j index number 



K dimensionless constant relating sand transport to longshore energy 

 flux 



K* dimensional constant relating sand transport to longshore energy 

 flux 



Kp pressure response factor 



