could be made. Thus, the effects of a strong reversal in wave climate must 

 also be considered in the other data since an evenly balanced wave climate with 

 a preponderance of southward-directed energy flux (which would give a low nega- 

 tive "net" Png value) might be correlated with an excessively large volumetric 

 accretion. To assess the possibility of this phenomena, the ratio of the cumu- 

 lative total northward energy flux to the cumulative total southward energy 

 flux was calculated for the average Pj^g value of stations 5714 and 5715. This 

 ratio is presented in Appendix B, Table B-3, and is discussed later in this 

 report. 



At the end of phase I of the study, LEO wave observations were compared to 

 the wave gage significant wave heights to determine any inconsistencies in the 

 LEO recorded waves. Figure 13 provides the comparison, for a 6-month period 

 during phase I of the study, which shows that the observer consistently re- 

 corded lower wave heights than the gage recorded in the case of the higher 

 waves. Although the plotted gage wave heights have not been modified to re- 

 flect a breaking wave height, an analysis of the transformation to breaking 

 conditions in a few selected cases did not alter the results significantly. 

 This observer bias in underestimating the higher waves was found to result from 

 the observer practice of recording the last breaking wave closest to the shore- 

 line in the case of multiple-breaking waves. Thus, when the higher waves broke 

 offshore, re-formed, and then broke again, the observer was only recording the 

 last and closest (to the observer) breaking wave height. 



2.0 



1.0 



o 0.5 





*i* 



kk 



k iUl A Ai M 



k k 

 kk k 





v* 



/ 



i 



/ 



LEGEND 



* - LEO within I hr of goge measurement 



96 Observations taken during Aug. 74 - Jan. 75 

 ot Ctionnel Islands Harbor, Colifornio 



0.5 



.0 1.5 20 



Significant Goge Height (m) 



2.5 



3.0 



Figure 13. Comparison of observed wave heights (LEO) to recorded 

 wave gage heights in phase I of study. 



27 



