f. Using equation (4-40) in the SPM 



where C = group celerity = /gd, according to linear shallow-water wave theory; 

 therefore, 



pg Hb2 /dK\^/2 



(^) 



P£s = —^^- \^} ^ sin 2a^ (A-8) 



g. Using equations (A-2) , (A-6) , and (A-8), and assuming m = W/db, the 

 following equation is found: 



_ pe Hb w V Cf 



(1^) (i;) 



h. The value of (V/Vq) can be assumed equal to that given by Longuet-Higgins 

 (1970) 



i. Equation (A-9) now becomes 



LH 



(A-10) 



P =lgJLb_Wl^ (A-11) 



(f)(a 



£s 



'o'LH 



44 



