Inman, D. Lo, and W. H. Quinn, Currents in the Surf Zone, Proc. Second 
Conf. on Coastal Engineering, Houston, Texas, November 1951, 
Council on Wave Research, 1952, pp. 2-36. 
Williams, E. Allen, and John D. Isaacs, The Refraction of Groups and of 
the Waves Which They Generate in Shallow Water, Trans. Am. Geophys. 
Union, Vol. 33, No. h, August 1952. 
II. New York University Bi-Monthly Progress Report, (Extracts from the 
16th and 17th Reports, dated ‘ September and 5 November 1952) 
Part Il of "A Unified Mathematical Theory for the Analysis, Propagation, 
and Refraction of Storm Generated Ocean Surface Waves" has been completed and 
distributed to those on the mailing list. It treats the problem of the 
refraction of a short crested Gaussian Sea Surface and gives some actual 
examples of the determination of power spectra by numerical and electronic 
techniques. 
Work for Part IIl (the final part of the paper) has been started. One 
excellent example which verifies the forecasting theory, as far as the 
variation in /i of the power spectrum, has been found and worked up from 
the literature. 
A paper entitied "The Theory of the Refraction of a Short Crested 
Gaussian Sea Surface with Application to the Northern New Jersey Coast," 
written by Willard J. Pierson, Jr., John J. Tuttell, and John A.Woolley, 
was presented by Mr. Pierson at the Third Conference on Coastal Engineering 
and will appear in the conference publication. 
Messrs. W. J. Pierson, W. Marks, and R. Schotland attended a conference 
sponsored by the Beach Erosion Board in Washington, D. G., on wave recording 
and wave analysis methods and alse discussed plans for next year with Board 
representatives. 
The next bi-monthly report will conclude the research conducted for the 
Board under the current contract, and will serve also as the final report 
of the project, summarizing the successes and failures of the project. 
JOLILS The Agricultural and Mechanical College of Texas, Quarterly Report 
for Period Ending 30 September 1952. 
Progress During the Quarter - 1 July to 30 September 1952 
1. Five fairly extensive field trips, of about one week each, were 
made during July and August to the Atchafalaya Bay region. The purpose of 
these field trips was to accumulate wave data on friction and percolation 
losses in the vicinity of the Pure Oil Platform, known as structure A. 
During only one of these trips were the waves greater than one 
foot in height. During this trip the wave heights and periods were between 
13 to 3 feet and 3 to 4.5 seconds respectively. One wave recorder was 
42 
