IIIo New York University Bi-Monthly Progress Report^ (Extracts from 

 Reports dated 12 May and 7 July 1952J 



The first ten chapters of the paper "A Unified Mathematical 

 Theory for the Analysis, Propagation, and Refraction of Storm Generated 

 Ocean Surface Waves" has been prepared and mailed out to those interested 

 in that material. Considerable favorable comment on Part 1 of the p^er 

 has been received,, 



Part II of this paper has also been completed„ It contains the 

 theory of additional properties of a short-crested Gaussian Sea Surface 

 and of the refraction of a short-crested Gaussian Sea Surface. The last 

 chapter contains the results of a detailed analysis of a pressure record. 



Papers on Part I and on the power spectrum analyses of ocean w^ave 

 records were presented in Washington, D, C, by W, Jo Pierson and W„ Marks 

 at the AoGoUo meetings. The paper on power spectrum analysis has been sub- 

 mitted for publication to the AoCU, 



The Woods Hole wave analyzer has been loaned to the project for 

 modification in order to convert it to a quantitative instrument, A broad 

 banded filter and a square law detector will be used to convert the 

 instrument to a power spectrum analyzer. 



IV, The Agricultural and Mechanical College of Texas, Quarterly 

 Report for Period ending 30 June 1952 



PURPOSE 



The Contractor shall furnish the necessary personnel and facilities 

 for and, in accordance with any instructions issued by the Contracting 

 Officer or his authorized representative, shall conduct an observation and 

 analysis program on the measurement of wave energy loss by bottom friction 

 and percolation in the shallow water of the Gulf of Mexico o Such research 

 shall include, but not necessarily be limited tos 



1. simultaneous measurements of wave amplitude and period from 

 from three wave recorders installed from 5 to 7 miles apart 

 in prevailing wave directions in the shallow water of the 

 Gulf of Mexico o 



2. the analysis of the records and the determination of the 

 combined percolation and friction losses in at least 

 two different traverses over shallow bottom having dif- 

 ferent slopes and bottom materials, 



3. an attempt to determine the relative importance of per- 

 colation and friction losses (from 2 above). 



27 



