PROGRESS REPORTS ON RESEiffiGH SPONSORED BY 

 THE EEACH EROSION BOARD 



Abstracts frora progress reports on several research contracts in -force 

 between universitites or other institutions and the Baaeh Erosion Board, 

 together with brief statemants as to the status of research projects being 

 prosecuted in the laboratory of the Beach Erosion Bofw'^i, are presented as 

 follows: 



I. University of Califorriia, Status Report No. 1 , 1 Dec 195,2t}u'ough 

 21 Jan I953 T ~ ~ """■™" 



The pxrcpose of the present contract is to study the moveirent of sand 

 in the shallow water imrnediately off shore and also a:r'ound the ends of 

 breakwaters and headlands. The primai-y objective is to didll bore holes 

 through the sand fill at Santa Barbara Harbor, to procure undisturbed sanples 

 of the fill and of the offshor'e sediments thai were beneath the water just 

 prior to the time the fill \jb.s deposited. These studies should provide 

 information on the nature of the sedirrients under different conditions of 

 transport of sand, off shore and on the fill area. 



Trips have been made to Santa Barbai'a to determine the most advantageous 

 places to place the bore holes and to make arx'angements -[rdth drilling con- 

 tractors. Arrange UBnts are now pending xirith the city authorities of Santa 

 Bar'bara for permission to drill upon the city beaches. Drilling xdll start 

 as soon as possible after permission to drill is granted. 



During the cour'se of the year laboratory experiments on model beaches 

 have been carried out in the -Fluid ^chanics Laboratory of the University 

 of California, under the direction of H, A, Einstein, J, W» Johnson, arid 

 Parker D, Trask for the purpose of ascertaining the mode of transport of 

 sand along the beach and around headlands, A report on this work by Ning 

 Ciiien and Huon Li was issued in August 1952 by tte Instittite of Engi.neering 

 Research as Series lii.. Issue No, 13. 



II, Scripps Institution of OGeanogrg )lyi, ^.arterly P rogi°ess Report No, 

 lij., October-Decei-jjjer 19^2^ 



The quarter saw the coirpletion of the study of the ai'eal and seasonal, 

 variations in beach and nearshore sediirants at La Jolla, California, Copies 

 of the report have been duplicated and forwarded to tte Beach Erosion Board. 

 Tte areal distribution of physical properties indicated that the sediments 

 varied in a systematic manner from one locality to another. It was found 

 that the sediments could be divided into types on a basis of particle-size 

 distidbution, and that these types t'jere characteristic of the environment 

 of deposition. The areal distribution patterns show a pronounced alignnBnt 

 of sediment properties, which in general is parallel to tte beach and surf 

 zone, a fact which is inportajrit to the understanding of nearshore processes 

 because it suggests that processes causing such alignment 3xA banding of 

 sediment attributes should in the main have isolines of intensity parallel 



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