the paper have been applied to the analysis of ocean wave records. The 

 true meaning of the significant height and the significant "period" is 

 explained hj these results. Theconalusion is that the significaxit height 

 is a measure of the total area under the power spectrum which Can be 

 fairly reliable, but that the significant period is a very poor statistic 

 which in a "sea" record is practically useless. Other results such as 

 the fact that L is not equal to gT2/2T[ for actual xjaves in deep water 

 have been obtained and verified, 



IV, The Agricultural and Ifechanical College of Texas, Qaarterly Report 

 for Period ending 31 Dec" "19F2V " 



The Plan of Attack , This called for the raost probable method of ob- 

 taining suitable xirave data for the study of friction and percolation losses. 

 Since the true swell in the Gulf of IfeacLco occurs only during the hurricane 

 season, a field party consisting of two men was organized to obtain wave 

 data during this season. Permission was obtained to install wave recorders 

 at Pure Oil Structures A and B and also in an old abandoned Coast Guard 

 light house, all in the Atchafalaya Bay Region of the Gulf of l-bid-co. The 

 remaining six months of the contract would be devoted to the analysis of 

 the wave data obtained during the hurricane season. In addition it was 

 planned to obtain wave data during the mnter season on the generation 

 of wind waves in shallow water. 



During the third quar-ter of this contract period the follotiTLng pro- 

 gress was made. 



Field Operations . Tliree field trips, one during each month, were 

 made to the Atchafalaya Bay Region, October being the last month of the 

 hurrican.e season, it uas hoped that additional data could be obtained on 

 waves suitable in the study of friction and percolation losses, Ifechanical 

 difficulty of twoiBCor'^s and one pressure head prevented the recording 

 of waves, which X'lere about 1-1/2 to 2 feet high and a 3-1/2 to k second 

 period. These instrunents were brought back to the Department of Oceano- 

 graphy and were repaired. 



During the December field trip, one pressure head was installed per- 

 manently at Pure Oil Structure A, and is now again in operation. Waves 

 will be recorded 30 minutes twice daily dvtring the remaining winter season 

 to obtal-n wave data on the generation of waves in shallow water. The other 

 two pressure heads and one recorder have been returned to the Department 

 of Oceanography, The previous plaji of installing one wave recorder permanently 

 on Structure B, to obtain additional wave data, has been abandoned at this 

 time, since the regular daily transportation betxreen Structures A and B has 

 been curtailed temporarily. 



Wa ve Data. The analysis of the wave records taken last suiimer has 

 essentially been c onpleted. Refraction diagrams are being constructed to 

 eliminate the effect of refraction before deteriiiining the actual loss of 

 energy due to friction and percolation, 



13 



