Work contemplated during June and July . The mechanical analysis of 

 the samples will be completed, the results compiled statistically, and 

 other studies initiated upon the basis of the results obtained. 



II. 



Scripps Institution of Oceanography, Quarterly Progress Report 

 Mo. 1$, January -March 1953 ' 



Analyses of the total heavy mineral content of the sediments from 

 the March 1950 survey were completed this quarter. The areal distribution 

 pattern of heavy-minerals for the March survey is similar to that of the 

 August 19i4^9 survey, but differs somewhat as to detail. 



Experimental measurements of the effects of accelerative forces on 

 the orbital current meter have been applied to theoretical velocity dis- 

 tributions. The relatively small magnitude of accelerative terms in 

 these theoretical cases suggests that accelerative terms are also small 

 in the case of actual waves outside of the breaker zone. Generally speak- 

 ing, the form of the velocity distribution curves obtained in the field 

 shows good agreement with the theoretical distributions. 



The program of underwater survey using a datum obtained by placing 

 reference rods on the bottom is being expanded. New and larger steel rods 

 are being used. A new method of locating the general area of the rods 

 from the surface has been developed. 



On 5 March a survey showed that a considerable slide had occurred in 

 South Branch of Scripps Canyon, the first slide to have taken place in 

 this particular area since 25 December 1951. This interval is consider- 

 ably longer than previous intervals between slides. The maximum deepen- 

 ing was approximately 11 feet, near the head of the branch, where the 

 depth had been l6 feet. At about 120 feet farther down the axis 

 the depth increase had diminished to about 3 feet. Some change is also 

 indicated in the adjacent branch, and in one profile a small valley, about 

 3 feet deep, developed along with a general deepening of the area by 

 several feet, so that the shape of the profile is considerably altered. 



A manuscript which presents the details of a sample calculation of 

 wave refraction along a single ray (orthogonal) has been prepared, 



III, New York University Second Quarterly Progress Report for 

 period 1 March to 31 May 1953T 



Hindcast Data - Checks of a wave spectrum forecasting method as de- 

 veloped from the theoretical spectra derived by Prof, Neumann are being 

 made against situations in which they can be checked off by observations 

 prior to preparing the statistical hindcasts. 



Three years of 6 hourly weather maps have been assembled and work 

 will begin soon on the actual task of preparing the hindcasts. 



-Ik- 



