PROGRESS REPORTS ON RESEARCH SPONSORED BY 
THE BEACH EROSION BOARD 
Abstracts from progress reports on several research contracts in force 
between universities or other insitutions and the Beach Erosion Board, 
together with brief statements as to the status of research projects being 
prosecuted in the laboratory of the Beach Erosion Board, are presented as 
follows: 
15 University of California, Contract No. DA-h9-055-eng-8, 
Status Report No. 10 - 1 June through 31 July 1953. 
The mechanical analysis of the 60 core samples collected during March 
from the filled area West of Santa Barbara breakwater has now been completed. 
The data obtained are now being compiled in the forms of tables and graphs. 
Ig University of California, Contract No. DA=l\9-055-eng-17, 
Status Report - October 1, 1952 to June 105 1953. 
This project is concerned primarily with an investigation of the funda- 
mental mechanics of sediment movement by wave action, with particular attention 
being given to the problem of movement in depths of water beyond the surf 
zone. Evidence indicates that appreciable movement of sediment appears to 
take place in water depths as great as 60 feet and possibly greater. One of 
the first steps in placing an outer limit to the depths at which sand move- 
ment along the ocean bed by wave action might be expected to occur, is the 
formulation of a criterion for the condition at which flow at or near the 
bed is unstable (turbulent). The initial work in this study consisted of a 
theoretical analysis on the stability of oscillatory flow along a wall. 
During the period in which this theoretical study was in progress, the 
experimental equipment was being constructed. This equipment consists of 
a tank with an oscillating bottom which can be given a motion relative to 
still water comparable to water motions occurring in the ocean. The initial 
set of experiments were made with both a smooth bed and a rough bed. The 
bed roughness was accomplished by fastening various types of roughness to 
the plate. Materials used consisted of sand, pea gravel, and half-round 
wooden strips of various sizes. The condition at which flow changed from 
laminar to turbulent flow was observed by the use of dye. 
Both the theoretical and experimental study with a fixed bed are pre- 
sented in the report "Stability of Oscillatory Laminar Flow along a Wall" 
by Huon Li. This report will be distributed in July 1953. 
Experimental work with a movable sand bed has been started and will 
be summarized in the next Status Keport. 
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