PREFACE 



This report presents a method for predicting nearshore significant wave 

 height given the straight -line fetch length, the windspeed, and the nearshore 

 water depth. The wave height prediction curves were generated by numerically 

 propagating offshore JONSWAP spectra shoreward while applying shoaling and 

 wave steepness limitation criteria to each spectral component. The report pro- 

 vides an alternate approach to the problem of shallow-water wave estimation. 

 The work was carried out under the shallow-water wave transformation program 

 of the U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) . 



The report was written by William G. Grosskopf , Hydraulic Engineer, and 

 Dr. C. Linwood Vincent, Chief, Coastal Oceanography Branch, Research Division. 



Comments on this publication are invited. 



Approved for publication in accordance with Public Law 166, 79th Congress, 

 approved 31 July 1945, as supplemented by Public Law 172, 88th Congress, 

 approved 7 November 1963. 



CED E. BrSHOP 



Colonel, Corps of Engineers 



Commander and Director 



