SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



d Stillwater depth 



dfc, depth of water at breaking wave 



Hb wave height at breaking (breaker height) 



H deepwater significant wave height 



H s significant wave height or average height of the highest one-third 

 of the waves 



^s-obs significant wave height measured by FRF gages 



H s-pred significant wave height predicted by irregular wave model 



HSPM wave height predicted by SPM method 



a variance of sea-surface elevation 



