Direction of travel 



Earlier position 

 of foreland * 



FIGURE I. TRAVELLING FORELAND 





c d 



FIGURE 2. WAVE APPROACHING SHORE 



Rare 

 wave action 



P 

 w Qve 



red0 °>!nant 



freQ* 



Nn — E 



atVvoo 



FIGURE 3. WAVE ACTION ON TRAVELLING FORELAND 



12 



