PROGRESS REPORTS ON RESEARCH SPONSORED BY 

 THE BEACH EROSION BOARD 



Abstracts from progress reports on several research contracts 

 in force between universities or other institutions and the Beach 

 Erosion Board, together with brief statements as to the status of 

 research projects being prosecuted in the laboratory of the Beach 

 Erosion Board are presented as follows: 



I. University of California, Contract No, DA-li9-055-eng-8, Status 

 Report No. 15, 1 May 195k through 1 July 195S~ " 



The statistical compilations of the data from sand samples collect- 

 ed around the rocky promontories in Southern California are now 75 

 percent completed. A similar statistical compilation of the analyses 

 of sand samples collected along the Point Reyes beach is 60 percent com- 

 pleted. The mechanical analysis of the samples collected during the 

 expedition at Santa Barbara in April is now completed and the data are 

 in the" process of compilation. 



A report by Theodore Scott entitled "Sand. Movement by Waves", was 

 completed and published as Technical Memorandum No. U8 of the Beach 

 Erosion Board. This report presents the results of a flume study of 

 the effect of long and short period waves upon the formation of bars 

 immediately adjacent to the coast line. In connection with this re- 

 port, a great many significant observations upon the mechanics of sand 

 transport, both on and offshore, as the results of wave action, were 

 obtained. 



II. University of California, Contract No. DA-U9-055-eng-31, Status 

 Report No. U, 1 May 195U to 31 July 195*1 



The analysis of the data for set-up is complete. The results in- 

 dicate: (a) A rapidly increasing set-up with decreasing still-water 

 depth: (b) There were no definite indications that the bottom roughness 

 affects the set-up for relatively deep water; (c) In very shallow water 

 the set-up is higher, the rougher the bottom. The trend is especially 

 definite for higher wind velocities. For the shallowest still-water 

 depth (0.05 foot) used in these experiments, the set-up was approximately 

 10 percent higher for the rough bottom and approximately 20 percent 

 higher when strips of cheese cloth were used in the channel to simulate 

 the roughness effects of vegetation. 



Observations indicate, however, that the time necessary to reach 

 the maximum set-up is considerably longer for the rough bottom con- 

 ditions, and it may be possible that the maximums are usually not 

 reached in nature where the duration of very high wind velocities is 

 usually relatively very short. 



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