This work has shown? 



(1) The sediments in the filled area west of the breakwater are 

 definitely more coarse grained than in the Feeder Beach area 

 to the east where wave action presumably is gentler. 



(2) The grain size as well as the coefficient of sorting increase 

 as the berm is built up. 



(3) The !_'rain size increases as the berm is built seaward into 

 more exposed positions. 



W ork contemplate d during December and January - The report on results 

 of the ho re -hole studies at Santa Barbara will be completed and the 

 mechanical analysis of the samples collected last summer off Point Arguello, 

 Point Conception and Point Dume will be run. 



II. University of California i _Gontract No. bA-U9~055-eng--17j 

 Status Report Ho. 2-10 June 19F3~to~l Octoberl9"5l . 



During this period the report "Stability of Oscillatory Laminar Flow 

 Along a Wall" 1 was completed and distributed. This report deals with a set 

 of experiments which were made with an oscillating bed with various rough- 

 nesses! and the conditions at which flow changed from laminar to turbulent 

 were determined. (This report will be published in 195U as a Technical 

 Memorandum of the Beach Erosion Board). 



Lxperimental work with a movable bed was completed and a rough draft 

 of a report started. This report deals with the mechanics of sand move- 

 ment on sandy beds in relatively deep water, due to the action of oscillatory 

 waves of small amplitude and long wave length. On the assumption that the 

 bottom water oscillations are nearly simple harmonic motions, aand movement 

 mechanics were studied by oscillating a section of the bed horizontally 

 through still water. Only that part of the sediment load which rolls or 

 creeps along the bottom, as distinguished from suspended load which is 

 carried in the fluid in suspension, is considered in this report. Its initial 

 and general movement, the critical velocities and horizontal amplitudes re- 

 quired for such movements, the conditions of flow at the interface - whether 

 laminar or turbulent, are experimentally measured and analyzed theoretically, 

 for grains of various sizes and densities. 



Further experimental work with glass beads of different sizes has 

 been started and will be incorporated in the above report at a later date. 



III. University of Cal ifornia, Contra ct No. DA-U9 -055-eng-31, 

 Status Report No. 1 - 2 Aug 1953 through 31 October 19^3 . 



This research investigation is designed to study the fundamental 

 mechanics of the formation and growth of wind waves and wind tides in 



22 



