IV. University of California, Contract No. Dk-h9-055-eng-kh , Status 

 Report No. 1, 1 July through 30 September 195U . 



Laboratory studies of wave refraction are to be made, this study 

 being an extension of a prior study where wave refraction on a beach of 

 1:U0 slope with beach orientations of 15, 3U, and 50 degrees with respect 

 to the direction of the generated wave train, was studied in an effort 

 to evaluate the usefulness of Snell's Law. The present study uses the 

 same beach orientations, but the slope of the beach is varied; 1:20, 1:U0, 

 and 1:60 slopes are used. The ripple tank four feet wide, twenty feet 

 long and five inches deep has had a glass plate U5" x 72" x 3/8" installed 

 in the middle of the tank bottom for these experiments. 



Large scale studies of wave refraction using a l50' x 60' x 2^' 

 model basin with a built in beach and a flapper type wave generator are 

 planned. Large scale comparisons with model results will be made using 

 a slope of 1:U0 and beach orientations of 15 and 50 degrees. The beach 

 in the large basin will also be modified to allow waves to continue over 

 the beach into a constant depth of water (d/L - 0.1); hence, they will 

 not break on the beach. In this case slopes of 1:20, 1:1|0 and 1:60, and 

 beach orientations varying from 5 to 85 degrees, if possible, will again 

 be used. 



V. Scripps Institution of Oceanography, Contract No. DA-U°-055-erig-3j 

 Quarterly Progress Report No. 21, July-September 19J?H 



Periodic measurements of sand-level changes with reference rods have 

 now extended over a period of 18 months. The maximum change during the 

 entire period now stands at 0.18, 0.21, and 0.07 ft. in areas where the 

 water depth is approximately 30, 52, 70 feet respectively. 



Results of the quarterly survey of the valley heads of Scripps 

 Submarine Canyon seem to indicate a considerable shoaling of the valleys 

 and some shoaling of the ridges between them. Divers reported that 

 instruments placed on the canyon bottom are being rapidly covered by kelp 

 and sand. 



VI. The Agricultural and Mechanical College of Texas, A & M Project 95 , 

 Quarterly Report for period ending 1U September 195k ~- 



This project consists of preparation of Statistical Wave Data on the 

 United States shore of the Gulf of Mexico obtained by hindcast methods. 



This period was devoted to organization and to training of project 

 personnel, including personnel for construction of refraction diagrams 

 for various areas of the Gulf Shelf and computation of generation of wind 

 waves over a shallow bottom of variable slope. A simple and yet accurate 

 method of hindcasting wind waves over a shallow continental slope is being 

 investigated. 



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