VII. Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, Mississippi 



Wave Run-up Study ; 



Testing was resumed on the 1 on 1§ slope step-face wall, 

 and these tests were completed. Testing was initiated on a recurved 

 wall. 



VIII. Beach Erosion Board, Research Division, Project Status Report for 

 Quarter ending 15 December 195U~ 



In addition to the research projects under contract to various 

 institutions which are reported on above, the Research Division of the 

 Beach Erosion Board is carrying out certain projects with its own 

 facilities. The main unclassified projects have been described in pre- 

 vious numbers of the Bulletin, and a short description of some of the 

 work accomplished through the last quarter is given below. 



The Study of The Reforming of Waves After Breaking - Beach bar 

 slopes of 1:90, 1:60, 1:30, and 1:10 with varying depths over the bar 

 have been tested and the data is now being analysed. 



Study of Sand By-Passing Operation at Port Hueneme - Data taken 

 before, during and after the Port Hueneme dredging project is being 

 reviewed, organized, and analysed. It is hoped that a hydrographic 

 survey may be obtained in the near future to serve as a 6 month comparison, 



Routine progress, testing and analysis have been made on the other 

 projects being carried out by the Research Division. In addition, 

 Research Division reports on "Laboratory Study of Equilibrium Profiles 

 of Beaches" by R. L. Rector and "Laboratory Study of Effect of Varying 

 Wave Periods on Beach Profiles" by G. M. Watts, were completed and 

 published as Technical Memorandums No. lil and 53. Also reports result- 

 ing from contract investigations made for the Beach Erosion Beard were 

 published as follows: "Modification of Wave Height Due to Bottom Friction, 

 Percolation and Refraction" by C. L. Bretschneider and R. 0. Reid; 

 "Field Investigation of Wave Energy Loss in Shallow Water Ocean Waves" 

 by C. L. Bretschneider; "Statistical Significance of Beach Sampling 

 Methods" by W. C. Krumbein; "Generation of Wind Waves over a Shallow 

 Bottom", by C. L. Bretschneider; and "Theory of the Ocean Wave Spectrum 

 and Its Uses in Wave Train Analysis", by W. J. Pierson, were published 

 as Technical Memorandums No. 1*5, 1*6, 50, 51 and 56 respectively. 



Also a U-week work conference of representatives of various Corps 

 of Engineers Offices was held at the Beach Erosion Board to analyse data 

 on waves in inland reservoirs. A rough draft report was completed, 

 showing that the S.M.B (Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider) curves agree very 

 closely with observed results if proper corrections are made for fetch 

 width and the difference in velocity between over-water and over-land 

 winds . 



19 



