PROGRESS REPORTS ON RESEARCH SPONSORED BY 

 THE BEACH EROSION BOARD 



Abstracts from progress reports on several research contracts in 

 force between universities or other institutions and the Beach Erosion 

 Board, together with brief statements as to the status of research 

 projects being prosecuted in the laboratory of the Beach Erosion Board 

 are presented as follows: 



I. University of California, Contract No. DA-i4 Q -005-eng>8, Status 

 Report No. 17, 1 October 195U through 31 January 195b 



A report entitled "Movement of Sand Around Southern California 

 Promontories'* has been 90 percent completed. This report embodies 

 the results of the past 18 months of work on the movement of sand 

 around Points Arguello, Conception and Dume in Southern California, 

 which has shown very clearly that sand moves around these promontories. 

 It moves in three distinct ways: (l) along the beach and surf zonej 

 (2) in the water from sea level to a depth of 30 feetj and (3) in 

 depths between 30 and 60 feet. Beyond the depth of 60 feet, little 

 sand is in the process of movement. Movement of sand in the surf zone 

 is interrupted by the rocky promontories, and whatever sand moves 

 around the points is either carried in the surf by the turbulent action 

 of the waves, or moves along the sandy bottom at the foot of the 

 promontories. None of these promontories extends beyond a 30-foot depth, 

 and hence sand in the 30-60-foot zone moves uninterruptedly around 

 the points. In the shallower zones where the normal progress of motion 

 is interrupted, the turbulent action of the waves is sufficient to 

 keep the sand in suspension; thus if there is a net set of current, 

 sand is moved around the points. 



Another report on beach changes at Point Reyes is in preparation. 

 This beach is exposed to the open ocean and is at right angles to the 

 prevailing wind and waves with a fetch of more than 2,000 railesj the 

 beach receives large waves at times of storms. The report will show 

 the areal and seasonal variations in beach characteristics, measurements 

 having been obtained at a series of locations along the beach 5 times 

 during the past 18 months. 



II. University of California, Contract DA-^9-005-eng-17, Status 

 Reports 7 and 8, October 195U through March 195% 



The experimental work, which consisted of obtaining (l) the forward 

 and backward velocity of motion of the sediment bed oscillating under 

 still water, (2) the sediment transport rates, and (3) the velocities 

 of travel, heights, wave lengths and shapes of ripples generated on the 

 bed, was completed. 



