A technical report, dealing with the mechanics of sediment 

 motion caused by the action of surface waves of large wave length 

 and small amplitude in relatively deep water and with the transporta- 

 tion of sediment in shallow water due to the action of differential 

 velocities existing under waves, was essentially completed. 



III. University of California, Contract No, DA-U9-005-eng-31, Status 

 Report No. 6, 1 October 195J4 to 1 February 19^ 



The three reports dealing with water surface roughness and shear 

 stress, and wind waves and set-up in shallow water were completed. 



IV. University of California, Contract No » DA-lt9-055-eng-Wi, Status 

 Report Nog. 2 and 3, 1 October 195U through 31 March 195J> 



Photographic data were taken in the ripple tank for five water 

 depths and five wave periods for each of three different beach slopes 

 (1:20, lsUO and 1:60) and for three wave angles (15, 3U, and $0 

 degrees) for each slope. Analysis of these data indicates that 

 Snell's law predicts the refraction angle with acceptable accuracy 

 although there is experimental scatter. 



V. Scripps Institution of Oceanography, Contract No. DA-U9-055-eng-3 , 

 Quarterly Progress Report No, 22, October-December 195k 



The maximum cut yet observed in the 21 months of reference- rod 

 studies occurred at the 30-foot depth during December. It coincided 

 with a period of unusually low, long -period ocean swells. The maximum 

 changes now stand at 0,26, 0,16, and 0,07 feet in areas where the 

 water depth is approximately 30, 52, and 70 feet respectively. 



A preliminary paper describing the physical aspects of ripples 

 generated by wave motion in shallow water is in preparation. The 

 ripple studies were extended to the Coronados Islands, Guadalupe 

 Island, Mexico and an area off Point Lomaj information gained in 

 these areas has strengthened the validity of the earlier findings and 

 indicates that they have a general application. 



A strong scattering layer (similar to one found three years ago) 

 was observed in the head of Scripps Submarine Canyon during one of the 

 surveys this quarter. The November survey indicated that the canyon 

 is still being filled, however the earthquake of 12 November started 

 a small slide in the sandy sediment in Sumner Branch. 



VT. The Agricultural and Mechanical College of Texas, A & M Project 95 



Quarterly Report for period ending 1U December 1954tCo nt.No . DA-99-055- 



eng-1+5 

 Construction of wave refraction diagrams for various locations 

 has continued, and deep water wind-wave hindcasts were made for the 

 five locations in the Gulf of Mexico for a 6 month series of weather 



8 



