UNCLASSIFIED 



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Spectra and parameters for the 24 highest energy cases from each gage 

 location are presented individually. Spectra for all cases are grouped 

 according to significant wave height and peak spectral period. Mean spectra 

 and standard deviations about the mean are presented for most height -period 

 groups. Parameters for all cases are summarized, including number of major 

 spectral peaks, spectral-peakedness parameter, and third and fourth moments 

 of the normalized distribution function of sea-surface elevations. 



Multipeaked snectra are common at all locations. Mean spectra show evi- 

 dence of systematic changes in shape as a function of significant height and 

 peak spectral period. Values of the spectral-peakedness parameter range from 

 about one to eight. The distribution functions of sea-surface elevations 

 indicate a tendency for more extreme high values than low and for a more 

 narrow distribution function than the Gaussian distribution. Observed char- 

 acteristics are related to physical wave behavior and illustrated with three 

 cases from cnoidal wave theory. Evidence is presented that the ratio of 

 significant wave height to water depth does not exceed 0.55 in depths of 

 5 to 9 meters. 



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