PREFACE 



This report provides coastal engineers and researchers with wave 

 energy spectra and spectral parameters for nine shallow-water gage 

 locations along the U.S. Atlantic, Pacific, gulf, and Great Lakes 

 coasts. Insight is also provided on the physical meaning of shallow- 

 water spectra, which are becoming increasingly important in coastal 

 engineering work. The work was carried out under the waves and coastal 

 flooding research program of the U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research 

 Center (CERC) . 



This report was prepared by Edward F. Thoin)son, Hydraulic Engineer, 

 under the siq)ervision of Dr. C.L. Vincent, Chief, Coastal Oceanography 

 Branch, and his predecessor. Dr. D.L. Harris. 



The guidance and constructive comments provided by Drs. Vincent and 

 Harris are gratefully acknowledged. The con^JUter program in Appendix D 

 was developed by Dr. Harris. The assistance of D.G. Dumm in preparing 

 some of the tables and figures is appreciated. Special appreciation is 

 due the CERC Automatic Data Processing Office for outstanding support in 

 producing the voluminous con^juter printouts and plots generated for this 

 report . 



Comments on this publication are invited. 



/^proved for publication in accordance with Public Law 166, 79th 

 Congress, approved 31 July 1945, as si^plemented by Public Law 172, 

 88th Congress, approved 7 November 1963. 



i.^ 



"TtD E. BISHOP 

 Colonel, Corps of Engineers 

 Commander and Director 



