CONTENTS 



TABLES--Continued 



Page 



6 Correlation between spectral-peakedness parameter and other 



wave parameters 50 



7 Mean (X, values for each Hg - Tp .group 51 



8 Statistics on skewness and kurtosis of distribution of sea- 



surface elevations 51 



FIGURES 



1 CERC wave gage locations 12 



2 Wave profiles and energy spectra for several cnoidal wave cases. 15 



3 Time history of significant wave height for three North Carolina 



gages during a large winter storm 16 



4 Aerial photo showing multiple wave trains along the southern 



California coast 8 kilometers south of Port Hueneme on 29 



March 1977 18 



5 Sequence of spectra computed at 6-hour intervals for Nags Head, 



North Carolina, beginning at 0642 e.s.t., 20 April 1969 .... 22 



6 Several individual spectra in the same H - T group. Nags Head, 



North Carolina 24 



7 Technique for partitioning spectral energy and assigning the 



energy to major peaks 26 



8 Comparison of two measured spectra from the North Atlantic 



Ocean with Hg = 3.3 meters, Tp = 10.5 seconds, and e = 0.61 . . 28 



9 Distribution function of sea-surface elevations for several 



idealized wave profiles 30 



10 Dimensionless mean spectra for several high wave, long-period 



groups and for the cnodial wave shown in Figure 2, case 3 . . . 34 



11 Section of pen-and-ink strip-chart record from Lake Worth, 



Florida, beginning at 0810 e.s.t., 20 February 1969 34 



12 Dimensionless mean spectra for several high wave, short -period 



groups at Nags Head, North Carolina 35 



13 Two pen-and-ink strip-chart records and corresponding spectra 



from Nags Head, North Carolina 35 



5 



