CONTENTS 



FIGURES--Continued 



Page 



14 Third moment of the normalized distribution of spectral points 



in each frequency band as a function of frequency and Hg for 

 Nags Head, North Carolina .... ....... 37 



15 Fourth moment of the normalized distribution of spectral points 



in each frequency band as a function of frequency and H for 

 Nags Head, North Carolina ............. 37 



16a Comparison of mean spectra from different gage locations 

 (Hg = 30 to 61 centimeters; Tp = 3 to 4 seconds). . . . 



39 



16b Coiiparison of mean spectra from different gage locations 

 CHg = 91 to 122 centimeters; T^ = 11.6 to 13.3 seconds) . 



. 39 



17 Percentage of spectra versus number of major spectral peaks. . . 40 



18 Pen-and-ink strip-chart records and corresponding spectra for 



some cases with five major spectral peaks ..... 41 



19 Fraction of spectra with at least one major secondary peak 



versus T^ 45 



20 Frequency of occurrence and average energy for secondary peaks 



as a function of secondary peak period at Nags Head, North 

 Carolina 46 



21 Frequency of occurrence and average energy for secondary peaks 



as a function of secondary peak period at Huntington Beach, 

 California. . . . • 47 



22 Cumulative probability distribution functions for spectral 



peakedness 49 



23 Pen-and-ink strip-chart records for selected cases with high 



Qp values 49 



24 Cumulative probability distribution functions for skewness of 



sea-surface elevation distribution function .......... 52 



25 Cumulative probability distribution functions for kurtosis of 



sea-surface elevation distribution function at Atlantic and 



gulf coast locations 52 



26 Cumulative probability distribution functions for kurtosis of 



sea-surface elevation distribution function at Great Lakes 



and Pacific coast locations 53 



