SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



d water depth 



f wave frequency 



flip high-frequency spectral cutoff used for coiqjutations 



f^^ low-frequency spectral cutoff used for computations 



fp frequency at the middle of the spectral band of maximum energy 

 density 



g acceleration due to gravity 



H wave height 



Hg significant wave height 



L wavelength 



Lp wavelength corresponding to a wave of frequency f„ 



m^ nth moment of the spectrum 



P(n^-) probability associated with n^- 



Q spectral-peakedness parameter 



q^ nt/z moment of the sea-surface elevation distribution function 



S(f) spectral energy at frequency f 



T wave period 



Tp wave period corresponding to highest peak of the spectrum 

 (Tp = :^1) 



e spectral width parameter 



n sea-surface elevation 



e phase 



