SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 

 d or d-swl Stillwater depth 



Eg wave energy moving in direction 6 



E^ wave energy of component "■£" 



g acceleration due to gravity 



iy, deepwater equivalent significant wave height 



H deepwater significant wave height 



Hg significant wave height or average of the highest one-third waves 



^■rms root -mean-square wave height 



Hj average of the highest 1 -percent waves 



H mean wave height 



K constant with energy units 



K^> wave refraction coefficient 



Kn- wave refraction coefficient of direction "£" 



L deepwater wavelength 



m beach slope 



N number of direction components used in refraction calculations 



Sy wave setup 



S* a parameter to quantify the directional spreading of wave energy 



T s average wave period of the highest one-third waves 



a angle of nearshore wave energy vector 



a deepwater dominant wave direction 



6 wave angle 



