CONTENTS 



Page 



CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) 6 



SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 7 



I INTRODUCTION 9 



II WAVE REFRACTION - DIRECTIONAL SPREADING OF WAVE ENERGY 10 



1. Directional Spreading of Wave Energy 10 



2. Refraction Calculations 10 



3. Wave Refraction Analysis 12 



4. Example Problem in Wave Refraction 13 



III NEARSHORE WAVE BREAKING MODEL 13 



1. Characteristics of Goda's Model 13 



2. Design Curves 15 



3. Calculation of Nearshore Wave Heights and Water 



Level Parameters 15 



4. Example Problems to Determine Nearshore Conditions .... 16 



IV SENSITIVITY ANALYSIS 18 



V ANALYSIS OF NEARSHORE WAVE HEIGHT CHANGES AT THE CERC 



FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY 20 



VI EXAMPLE PROBLEM 25 



VII SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 27 



LITERATURE CITED 28 



APPENDIX 



A WAVE REFRACTION DIAGRAMS 29 



B NEARSHORE WAVE CONDITIONS AND SETUP DIAGRAMS 32 



C NEARSHORE SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT DIAGRAMS 45 



TABLES 



1 Recommended values of S* 12 



2 Comparison of refraction coefficients for selected S* and a Q 



values at d/(gT|) =0.01 13 



3 Sensitivity analysis for nearshore wave height prediction for a 



selected deepwater condition 18 



4 Predicted nearshore significant wave height 26 



