SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



d Stillwater level or water depth, that would be found if the 

 waves were not present 



g acceleration due to gravity 



H-l nearshore breaker height predicted by monochromatic wave theory 



H' unrefracted deepwater significant wave height (this is the 

 equivalent wave height that would occur with refraction 

 accounted for at the point of interest) 



H s nearshore significant wave height 



L deepwater wavelength 



m the average beach slope approximately one-half to one 

 wavelength seaward of the point of interest 



Sy wave setup or increase in effective water level that occurs 

 due to radiation stress (Sy can be negative; when Sy is 

 negative it is referred to as setdown) 



T wave period (for irregular waves use the period of peak 

 energy density) 



