SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



A horizontal displacement amplitude of water particles 



Cf friction coefficient 



d water depth 



dgQ sand grain size of 90th percentile of sediment samples 



Hg significant wave height 



^sn significant wave height at location n 



Kg shoaling coefficient 



^sn shoaling coefficient at location n 



k wave height 



k roughness height 



L wavelength 



^n wavelength at location n 



L deepwater wavelength 



m bottom slope 



Rg Reynolds number 



T wave period 



U|^ maximum horizontal water particle velocity 



V kinematic viscosity 



(j) integral of the dimensionless shoaling factor, ^r: 



(f>£ dimensionless shoaling factor 



