The shoaling coefficient can be calculated from 



K„ = 



and 



4TVd 



2Trd \ / L 



tanh I 1 + 



L /\ 4ird 

 sinh — 



-1 



/2 



(2) 



d/T2 /d \ 



(3) 



The term (}) can be evaluated from Figure 1 . 



2.0 

























































^ 







^^ 























1 

 8 



6 

 4 



2 

























X, 











































^ 



S, 











































s 



\ 















C 































s 



\ 











































\ 













8 

 6 



4 



3 



2 













































































\ 











































\ 









c 



































\ 











































\ 













2 4 6 8 

 ■« 10-* - 



2 4 6 8 

 .. 10-3 J 



2 16 8 

 .. 10-2 ► 



2 4 6 8 

 ■• 10"' ► 



—J- / <tn 8(d/T*) ( Oimensionless) 



Figure 1. Graph used in determining the integral of the bottom dissipation 



function, (J)^, for waves passing over a constantly sloping bottom. 



The friction coefficient, C^, has been given considerable attention in 

 laboratory and theoretical studies in recent years. Bretschneider and Reid 

 (1954) recommend using a constant value of 0.01. More recent laboratory work 

 has indicated a dependence of friction factor on the Reynolds number and 

 dimensionless bottom roughness height. Jonsson (1966) and Kamphuis (1975) 

 produced and refined a friction factor diagram, as shown in Figure 2, where 

 the friction factor, C^ , can be found if the Reynolds number at the sea 



