SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



c = L/T wave celerity 



D median sand grain diameter 



d mean water depth 



dg maximum water depth for sand bed agitation by waves 



E average energy dissipation rate 



fg energy dissipation coefficient for rough turbulent flow over 

 strongly agitated sand bed 



g acceleration due to gravity 



H wave height 



H^ equivalent wave height in deep water ignoring refraction 



Kg shoaling coefficient in linear wave theory 



L wavelength 



Lg = gT^/2Tr wavelength in deep water 



n ratio of group velocity to wave celerity 



P average wave energy flux 



T wave period 



X wave propagation distance 



C horizontal amplitude of near-bed fluid orbit 



p fluid density 



Additional subscripts 



j value at location where wave condition Is to be predicted 



m value at geometric mean water depth for region of Interest 



1 value at location where wave condition is defined initially 



+/- case where d^ Is greater or less than dj 



