- CONTENTS 



Page 



CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) 6 



SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 7 



I INTRODUCTION 9 



1 . Purpose 9 



2. Background 9 



II DATA COLLECTION 10 



1. Profile Stations 10 



2. Survey Periods and Earlier Reporting 10 



3. Profile Procedures 10 



III PROFILE CHANGES 14 



1. Shore Retreat 14 



2. A Qualitative Description of Nearshore Adjustment 15 



3. Bar Geometry 15 



4. Bar Mgration 17 



5. Depths of Profile Closure 20 



6. Volume Changes 22 



IV PREDICTION MODEL 24 



1. Idealized Concept of the Sediment Balance Approach 25 



2. Difficulties in Applying the Sediment Balance Approach 26 



3. Suitability of Present Data for Testing the Sediment 



Balance Concept 30 



4. Application of the Sediment Balance Approach 32 



5. Using Wave Climate to Estimate the Pinch-out Depth 39 



6. Inferences from Profile Shape Alone 41 



V EXAMPLE PROBLEMS 44 



VI SUMI-IARY 53 



VII CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS 54 



LITERATURE CITED 56 



APPENDIX 



A SHORE AND NEARSHORE PROFILES IN THE AREA OF LITTLE SABLE POINT, 



MICHIGAN, 1967 TO 1976 59 



B VOLUME CALCULATIONS 91 



C VARIATIONS IN EXPOSURE TO STORM WAVES AT THE GREAT LAKES Ill 



TABLES 



1 Volume change per unit width of shore 24 



2 Predicted and observed profile retreat in units 38 



3 Cross-validation indicates the effect of estimating pinch-out 



depth from wave climate data 40 



